Sunday, November 24, 2013

How the Other Half Lives

         

          Limbe and Blantyre are full of expats. I realized that when we were asked to go to Hillview School, an international school in BCA Hill for their annual Christmas Fair. I was just going to pop in for a little while being more interested in going hiking in Satemwa Tea Estate that morning.  A group of Malawian children stood outside the school fence at the entrance gawking, trying to catch a glimpse of what was going on in the school yard while school children arrived in cars driven by their parents.  I would be one of those kids outside the fence when I was growing up. Somehow I do not remember having been envious of the kids inside the fence or that life had dealt me an unfair fate.  I knew that I had to work hard to change my situation.  Wandering around the school yard filled with festivities, abundance of crafts, gifts, food and drinks and Christmas music in the air, I could not help but felt a twinge of sadness for the inequality of life and the disparity between the privileged expats, well-to-do nationals and the local poor.             

         The day before I walked deep into the BCA or British Central Africa Village right below the BCA Hill, I tried once to penetrate it but was deterred  by a couple of young men right outside a bar from which loud music streamed out.  They looked at me with glassy eyes, having had a little too much to drink.  One of them said it would make him very happy if I could give him money to buy a drink.  I carried no money with me and told him so.  Standing right at the edge of the village prudence told me that I should not venture into it that evening.  I turned around and walked right back up the hill.  This time I walked into the village greeting the villagers in Chichewa and somehow that always brought out friendly responses and I felt safe.  Some people called out,”Mupitakuti?” (Where are you going?).  The houses were small mainly of bricks with worn out stucco, topped with tin roofs. Narrow, rugged roads with sharp stones crisscrossed the village.  Children, most in ill-fitted dirty clothes and some boys with big gaping holes in their shorts revealing their bare bottoms, walked bare foot, unperturbed by the jagged rocks protruding from the road surface.  Women and men sat on the road sides selling produce, second hand shoes and clothes.  Minibuses arrived at the entrance of the village leaving a trail of choking dust behind them.  Most of the land has been cleared for planting. The people of the village are just waiting for the first rain to fall before seeding.

          That week the water main broke and a string of women balancing big buckets on their heads; walked up the hill a few kilometers to the water department to fetch water.  The people living on BCA Hill have huge water tanks and life went on as usual unperturbed by this event.

          The same evening we drove to Thyolo in a MSF minibus to the Thyolo Sports Club.  At the entrance was a group of locals sitting silently at the edge of the road.  Expats and well-to-do nationals drove in for the night was for the celebration of Guy Fawkes Day.  Guy Fawkes was involved in the Gunpowder Plot of 1605 in an attempt to overthrow James 1 for a Catholic monarchy.  However the plot was uncovered. The locals must have experienced this celebration in years past and partook of the festivity as observers outside the sports club.  The kids outside the gate sat on the ground in the gathering gloom quietly while the rambunctious kids inside ran around in the lawn doing what kids should do.  A bonfire was lit as an effigy was burnt.  The evening ended with a display of firework. We the privileged ones left in our cars leaving the locals behind.  I hope we do not take this privilege for granted.

No comments:

Post a Comment